a) it's so much more difficult and expensive to
connect the steering box to column
b) the clearances for headers is reduced
I would actually select a sub frame like the 78-86 Monte Carlo which has a narrower width then the Camaro's and will provide more tire to fender clearance.
It's kind of tricky creating a radiator support brace but it can
be done.
Steps to follow before
sub frame enters the picture:
1. Remove the front end as an assembly.
2. Measure original spindle centerline and mark
this as a horizontal line on the frame.
3. Remove the engine and transmission.
4. Make sure the frame is level front to rear
and side to side
5.Weld a horizontal bar across the top and bottom
of the frame just in front of the cab to:
a) maintain the frame width
b) provides a point to take reference measurements
6. You need to take the following measurements
from the horizontal bar:
a) axle centerline mark
b) end of frame horns
c) radiator support cross
member holes
7. You also need to take height measurement
from the ground to the:
a) top of frame horns
b) top of radiator support
To simplify some of the installation process I make a jig "to locate the exact position of the radiator cross member holes, end of frame horn and it's height and width". This is accomplished by welding a bolt to the horizontal reference bar, drilling a hole in a another bar that slides over the bolt and leans forward with flat stock welded to it with holes drilled to locate the radiator support holes and another piece of flat stock that locates the end of the frame horns at the proper height.
Before you discard the original front frame you'll need to weld a bar across the front frame horns to maintain their width and then cut that section off. This section will be re-welded to the new clip to allow installation of the original bumper brackets.
Preparing Sub Frame:
1. I remove the shocks and install an all thread rod and crank the rod down until the lower a-arm is horizontal to the floor and simulates ride height.
2. I like to install the rims and tires that will be used on the truck also.
3. Mark the axle center line on the donor sub
frame.
I can't provide you with an exact point to cut the frame off at because I normally just cut the frame off somewhere around 8-9 inches in front of the cab mounting brace. I then roll the sub frame under the truck and locate the axle centerline point and trim the frame to clear the sub frames lower control arm and trim the sub frame to mate up with the trucks frame.
Their are several ways you can mate the two sections together. I'll give some examples:
1. Bend the Trucks frame outward to allow the sub frame to slide into the trucks frame.
2. Notch the sub frame so part of the sub frame slides into the trucks frame and part slides to the outside.
3. Slide the sub frame back under the trucks frame and bring it up under the trucks frame until it touches the bottom and weld it.
4. You would then make boxing plates to strengthen the area.
BEFORE YOU DO ANY WELDING YOU NEED TO:
1. Locate the correct axle centerline.
2. Measure in a cross hatch pattern from one
side of the frame by the horizontal bar to the opposite side of the frames
front and from the opposite frame horn to the other side of the horizontal
bar "kind of like an X pattern" until both measurements are the same.
This ensures your sub frame is going to be straight.
Remember that whatever sub frame you install it's going to be wider that the trucks original width and you will need off set rims to reduce the possibility of the tires rubbing on the fenders.
I help to reduce this possibility by taking about 1" off the width of the cross member and the center link to reduce the frame width.
If your still unsure of the installation, I believe that Fat Man
Fabrication sells patterns to help with the installation.
Fat Man Fabrication
(704) 545 - 0369