* may have white stripe
Before inserting plug in switch, check the letters written on the switch near each terminal against the chart above to be sure wires are located correctly. Some switches are different & the wires must be moved.
When wiring a column mounted ignition switch, always check the switch closely for wording or abbreviations that match the 4 circuits listed above. There will be many extra connections which may be used to "DOUBLE" up connection for convenience or left empty. The colors listed will match your plug wire colors. Duplicate colors, use the large wire.
A word of warning when wiring the ignition circuit to the Distributor.
On the newer switches when the key is turned to the start position to activate
the starter the switch disconnect current flow to some ignition terminals
and the accessory terminal to make sure full voltage is available to start
the vehicle. So, if you have the wire going to the distributor on
one of these terminals the vehicle will never start. What I do it
take my digital tester "a test light will also work" and probe each terminal
to determine which terminal continues to supply current to the ignition
terminal when the key is in the cranking position.
The neutral safety is a safety device that ONLY allows the vehicle to start when the shifter is in Park or Neutral.
The wiring of this circuit is fairly simple. All your going to do is take the purple starter (sol) wire coming out of the key switch and run it into one of the terminals on the neutral safety switch. Then you take another wire and plug it into the other terminal on the neutral safety switch and run the other end of the wire to the terminal on the starter solenoid "on a small block Chevy this would be the small inner terminal closest to the block".
Adjusting the Neutral Safety Switch "Column Mounted"
To begin the adjustment the shifter must be placed in park position.
The switch is generally held to the column with two sheet metal screws. Once the two screws are loosened you can slide the switch on the column a slight amount in the slotted opening.
Their are several methods to adjust the switch so I will list three:
Remember I said the switch allows you to start the vehicle in Park or Neutral so you'll want to check to be sure the vehicle will start when the shifter is in the neutral position as well. If it will not then you need to fine tune the adjustment on the column until it does.
The other two contacts on the neutral safety switch are for the Backup light circuit. They allow current to flow to the backup lights only when the shifter is in Reverse. You can check this connection with your continuity meter by placing the shifter in reverse and the meter should beep.
Here's a little tip for ya:
Say you don't have a place to install Backup Lights but how about wiring in a socket to install one of those Backup warning Beeping Bulbs. All you have to do is plug it in and when your shifter is in reverse the bulb will emit a beeping sound to warn everyone your about to backup!
As you know to add signals to the old trucks required you to install another set of taillights on the bed side rail if you didn't have a barden bumper and the front signal housing to the fenders "usually on top". The truck now had two separate housings in the rear "one for stop and parking and the other for the signals which also doubled as hazards".
The original unit distributes it's power from the flasher to the left or right side depending which way the arm is moved. Their was no provision to incorporate the stop and signal function into one housing so that's the reason for the additional taillight housing on all corners. Later on they came out with the 7 wire signal stat unit with the dual filament bulb "stop/signal and parking" in one housing.
This conversion will allow you to eliminate one of the
bulb housing out back on each side and keep one dual filament housing per
side to function as the stop/signal and parking lights just like
the newer vehicles.
I will list two separate methods to accomplish the conversion
and you can decide which one is right for you. The
second method is actually a do it yourself manufacturing of the first kit
and Method.
The first method is relatively simple and only requires you to purchase a Cal Term Taillight Conversion kit out of El Cajon CA I WILL GET THE MODEL NUMBER. What this kit will do is convert the single function of the original signals into a unit that will provide a stop and signal function through the same original wire that was going to the back signal light and still provide the signal up front.
The front signal wire remains untouched because it gets it's signal before the conversion unit as you can see from the drawing.
You can change the socket in the front parking light housing to a dual filament socket and move the signal wire over to eliminate the extra signal housing on each side up front. The conversion sockets are available from several vendors listed in the vendors section or at your local auto parts dealer.
The stop light wire going to the back will need to be cut exiting the stop light switch and wired up into the conversion unit. This wire will not be needed out back because the conversion unit now incorporates the stop and signal function through the same wire. You can either just tape up the ends of the wire or pull it out of the loom.
Here's how it's done:
